South West: Indian Country
William E. Schmidt is the head office in Denver, the New York Times. William E. Schmidt
It is a cold and windy afternoon in March, and the Pintado Point folded hills of the Painted Desert seems bleak and lifeless under a blue sky and bruised by the gray clouds. Pilot Peak, about eight miles north-west, is barely visible behind a veil of rain, and the hills following the desert wash the soil of the valley to see how lumpy paper-making model on a mountain Railway model.
But it is an open sky, and in half an hour early storm clouds blow away in the South-East. And when the sun begins to spread again its light through the desert valley live rock hummocks, almost as if bulbs was lit in each. At the heart of the grey stone, there is now a wide variety of colors: red, ochre groups and veins, alternating with white, some of them thin as a pencil and other lines in bold and wide. It is a remarkable view of hundreds of square miles of desert high exacerbated by the strong light and shadow of a Fading afternoon and the sky constantly changing.
Not long ago, before Interstate 40 exceeded that left former U.S.-66 and turned the journey to the west with the car in a marathon adventure broken only by boxes stoppages sleep, food and fuel for the machine, few people came from far south-west of marveled without Painted Desert and its breathtaking view. Today, nearly one third of travellers, the Grand Canyon, 79 miles northwest of Flagstaff, rising Intergovernmental to visit the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forest, which represent together Petrified Forest National Park Many travellers, eyes glued on the development of the highway, turn one who does not know it is there.
Petrified Forest National Park is one of many sites along I-40 rich, as it roles between bleak and sandstone rocks Badlands of New Mexico and north-north-west of Arizona. This is where sections of the highway that runs through the centre of India, bisecting the southern district of the vast Navajo reservation and baseboards of the Zuni and Acoma Pueblo ruins and antiques Wapatki and Walnut Canyon .
There are more contemporary ruins, including the remains of a vanishing point sub-culture, which flourished along the Two-Lane Blacktop of the U.S.-66, as it wound south-west by the Los Angeles and the Pacific Ocean. The old road always, there are some places, with gradients billboards and the ageing of the stability of trade, where entrepreneurs know Sunburned moccassins and blankets and ashtrays hand to another generation of summer tourists. Indeed, there are always service stations along the way, where you can get a free room with a skirt versteinerte complete and Indian surrounded by small shops colored wooden wigwams.
And he is genial, the spectacle of the high desert, although not always clear Interstate with a speed of 55 mph. The landscape is not as boggling, perhaps because the rocks and gorges of the Red Rock country of southern Utah or schwindelerregende depths of the Grand Canyon. But it is a subtle Art of Wonder, prehistoric forest turned to stone or cinder pechschwarz hills and jagged lava flows that surround the slopes of Sunset Crater in the mountains north of Flagstaff.
Interstate 40, U.S.-66, as before, crosses from Mexico to New Texas. Sixty kilometers north of Albuquerque, the largest city in the state is Santa Fe, with its adobe architecture and rich taste of the territorial integrity of Mexico. Farther west, which crosses the lagoon intergovernmental and Acoma Indian Reservation, where families still live in traditional stone and adobe villages.
But it is the range I-40 between Gallup - only within the limits of New Mexico - and Flagstaff - in the center of Northern Arizona, 185 miles to the west - is the true travel. Depending on the time and passion, there are just two days worth of sidetrips, starting by Gallup, a city that describes itself adequately the Indian capital of the country.
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